Day 1 Part 2 – The Big Kahuna (August 11)

Unlike RAGBRAI, even though we were finished with the paddling, the work wasn’t over yet. First came the tents. Charlie had lent us a special one, so naturally he took his time demonstrating the intricacies of its specialized poles. Lionel still had enough energy to talk a mile a minute, so I put his lungs to good use inflating our mattresses. Charlie would be sleeping in a nifty bug-proof hammock that he later setup while Lionel and I hunted for firewood.

Dinner was freeze-dried pad thai with sticky rice, and after 15.5 grueling miles it tasted like it was prepared by a Michelin star chef. The packets were portioned for two grown adults, but since there were three of us, they gave us double packs, enough to feed four. As hungry as we were, even Charlie, who many have nicknamed the “human garbage disposal,” struggled to finish. We were stuffed, but the feeding hour was just beginning… as the bugs came out.

By 7 p.m., the bug nets went on over our hats. Move aside, Jack and Ralph, even without the conch, I had become Lord of the Flies… and about 25 other species of insects. I tried smoking them out with the campfire, but unless you stood directly in the smoke, it did nothing. We doused ourselves in Jungle Juice, an abrasive spray made of 100% DEET. We slathered it on liberally, but its effectiveness was questionable. Even if it repelled 90%, I couldn’t tell, I was too busy being mobbed by the hundreds that stuck around.

After washing the dishes, Charlie decided to take a dip in the lake. Lionel tagged along, planning to just “dip his feet in.” But once he saw Charlie dive off the rocks, he figured he might as well do more than get his toes wet. Without much hesitation, he pushed himself off the rock too. It was a bit of a shock. Lionel had assumed the water would only be knee-deep. After some consternation (and a mini-lecture) from his father about not listening to instructions or asking before jumping in, I eased up and let him swim. His clothes were already soaked anyway. We strapped him into his life jacket and sent him back in. The rocky shoreline meant he had to keep his Keens on, which made swimming awkward, more like dog-paddling in ankle weights.

Back at camp, Charlie and I still had the onerous task of hanging our 50-pound food pack twelve feet up in a tree. We were given two fifty-foot ropes, each about the width of a shoelace, along with written instructions for the task:

Step one: Find a sturdy tree branch at least twelve feet in the air. This turned out to be nearly impossible, as the campsite trees weren’t very tall and their branches were anything but sturdy. Eventually, we settled on what we generously called “the best option” (picture a slightly taller version of Charlie Brown’s Christmas tree.)

Step two: Take the rope with the carabiner on one end, attach it to a half-full water bottle, and hurl it over the chosen branch.

Step three: Detach the bottle, run the second rope through the carabiner, and in theory, create a pulley system to be able to lift the pack without shredding the bark.

Step four: Hoist the whole thing skyward and tie it off to another tree.

It is here that I will openly admit Charlie’s and my greatest weakness on the trip: tying knots. Growing up, I’m pretty sure I wore Velcro shoes well into middle school, and as a full-grown adult I still slip my shoes on from the back. Back in Boy Scouts, despite hours of lessons, I never mastered a single knot. It’s completely accurate to say I’m awful at tying knots, yet somehow, I’m still better than Charlie. (For reference, Charlie is finally getting married this October after eight years of dating.) The knots we tied to keep the food pack aloft were almost always for naught. Granted, we never repeated the same mistake twice, but only because we had no idea what we were doing in the first place. Think of someone mashing buttons on a video game controller, hoping something works, that was us.

Once we had the carabiner tossed over the branch and one rope “secured,” we fastened the second rope to our 50-pound food pack. I distinctly remember Mathias suggesting I pack a pair of leather gloves to protect my hands, but I figured I’d just tough it out. Bad idea. Trying to hoist fifty pounds with something the width of a shoelace didn’t go well. Charlie decided to help by squatting down with the food pack on his shoulders and leap-frogging it into the air. At the peak of his jump, he would hurl the pack upward while I yanked the rope. (His summers of tossing kids into the pool finally paid off.) That first night, we managed to get the bag a whopping seven feet off the ground… at which point Lionel promptly informed us that wasn’t good enough. With sweat pouring into my eyes, I decided it was best for Lionel to just go to bed.

Inside the tent, I read Lionel a chapter from The Haunted Library and kissed him goodnight before slipping out to try and enjoy a little adult time with Charlie. Usually, when we go camping, Lionel is out like a light, but this time he really struggled as he had no bear to snuggle and the relentless sound of bugs all around.

I knew the swarm was bad; I could hear their bodies pelting the netting over our faces like kamikazes. The mesh kept them from touching us, but the sound alone made it feel like they were drilling into our eardrums. For the next hour and a half, Lionel kept calling me back to kill the mosquitoes “inside” the tent. I tried to explain they were outside, but he insisted, “I can hear them right in my ear.”

I offered him lines like “mind over matter” and “this is Spartan training,” but they didn’t do much good. Meanwhile, Charlie and I had hauled a five-liter bag of Pinot Gris fifteen miles, and it was time to enjoy the fruit of our labor. Still, as much as I wanted to sit by the fire, Lionel had some valid complaints. So I popped into the tent, clapped my hands ten times at random and declared victory. “All gone.” A few minutes later, Lionel was out cold, finally asleep for the night.

Then came my favorite moment. The firepit overlooked the lake, and even though smoke from the Canadian wildfires dulled the stars, the sky still seemed to shimmered with hundreds of them. Charlie and I talked late into the night, the kind of conversation that makes the world feel right, even when it isn’t. After several hours in that nirvanic state of mind (helped along by the considerable dent we’d put in the Pinot Gris bag), we doused the fire and called it a night.

As tired as I was, sleep didn’t come as quickly as I’d hoped. After all my talk to Lionel about “mind over matter,” I now found myself wide awake, struggling against the same relentless symphony of bugs.

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